Custom white balance can be a tricky subject, especially if you are new to digital photography. Some methods people use are:
- Using custom white balance in camera
- Using an Expo Disc tool
- Guessing at the white balance on your computer screen
- Using a measured neutral gray card
My preferred method is using a measured neutral gray card. The one I use is called a WhiBal and is made by RawWorkFlow.com. You can purchase online directly from their site, or through B&H and other dealers, but it’s really easy to purchase direct, even if you are from Canada. The WhiBal cards are sent through snail mail and I had no hassles with duty or anything like that.
Other manufacturers make these types of cards as well, including Gretag MacBeth, a company I’ve mentioned before in this post on monitor calibration. The WhiBal offers the best value though. I’ve heard from other people that the Expo Disc is hard to use in the studio, but I don’t have any hands on experience with it myself. A lot of photo journalists like them, because they shoot mainly jpgs and then they don’t have to do any post processing.
I’ve made a little demonstration movie about how I use the WhiBal card when shooting and post processing my images. You can use the WhiBal if you shoot jpgs too. Now that all the popular raw processing software on the market work with jpgs, you’ll be able to use the same methods I teach you in the video.
Summary of the video demo:
- Take a photo of the digital gray card in the same light as your subject. Remember you’re measuring colour temperature, so you’ll want to get the light falling on your subject consistent with the light falling on the WhiBal card.
- Carry on taking photos under the same light.
- If the light changes, then take another photo of your gray card in the new light.
- In your post processing software, find the white balance tool.
- Click the colour picker on the gray card.
- Note the temperature and tint numbers.
- Apply that setting to the rest of your photos taken in the same light.
- Voila! Beautiful neutral colour.
- If you don’t want neutral, you can adjust after establishing neutral. It’s just easier that way.
I’m still using my original WhiBal cards that I purchased over 7 years ago
The cards are made of durable plastic, washable and super easy to use. I have a 4×6 inch one and a business card-sized one. I use the bigger one when I’m shooting in the studio. The smaller one is always in my camera bag, and when I’m shooting I keep it in my pants pocket or even around my neck if I’m feeling ultra nerdy that day.
The WhilBal will work with:
- Adobe Camera Raw – which is part of Photoshop and also Photoshop Elements
- Aperture
- Lightroom
- Capture One and Capture One Pro
- iPhoto
- and any program that lets you set your white balance using a colour picker tool
If you aren’t using a white balance tool yet, consider the WhiBal
I trust it 100%. It gives me a neutral colour, and if I want to make an image warmer or cooler, I can change it to taste and subject matter. I never worry about what the colour looks like on my monitor, or my skin tones being off, and I can send files to the lab or to clients with confidence. If you shoot artwork and you want true colour, you can get it by using a WhiBal card and this method. Keep in mind though, not all pigments reproduce properly once they go to print, but that’s a whole other lesson!
Caution: You cannot substitute Kodak’s 18% Gray card for a white balance card. Those cards measure reflected light, and are used for metering purposes, not white balance!
Tell me what you think in the comments. What do you use to get good white balance? I’d love to hear your experiences on this topic.
p.s.
This is my very first live video with screen capture that I’ve created. It took me several days to make this and I realize that it’s a tad unpolished, especially the audio. You’re allowed to laugh though. I laugh, especially at Little Man, my special needs assistant, who is always happy to help me and always loves having his picture taken.
The Rocket Science part: I made the video with a Canon Vixia HF20 DV camera, edited the video in iMovie ’09, did the screen capture in Camtasia for Mac (trial version) and combined that in iMovie with my live video. The movie is hosted on Amazon S3, which was another learning curve in itself! Now that I know how to do this, things can only get better!
And one last thing: If you can’t open your raw files, go here for my tutorial.
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Learn the techniques pros use! In this course you will learn how to use white balance cards, shoot camera raw files, and do basic raw image editing techniques using Adobe Photoshop Elements 9, which is a reasonably priced and reasonably powerful image editing program.Learn more about this course . . . |
This was fantastic, Marlene! It was so nice to “meet” Shawn, too.
I can see I have plenty to learn from you. I’ve been relying on my eyes to balance color in the photos I retouch, but there are times I just can’t get them to look right, and I can’t figure which way to twist the dials! Thanks for explaining it so clearly.
Thanks for your comments, Pamela. A friend told me today that Shawn stole the show. I have to agree.
Yes, sometimes it’s hard to know which way to twist the dials, especially when working with client supplied images. Things are much easier to twist using Adobe Camera Raw (ACR). It opens jpgs, and un-layered tif files too, and much easier than fiddling with curves! You could try finding a neutral spot on the file. Black, white and gray are all neutral, so if you’re totally desperate, you can click on one of those colours too. As long as it’s true black, white or gray, it should still produce a reasonable starting point in most cases. From there, move the temperature and tint sliders in ACR if you want to fine tune. Then there’s what I call reading the numbers, but that’s a whole other lesson, and not for the faint of heart!
Great video, especially for a first try! It was very clear and easy to understand. Thanks!
I’m happy you enjoyed it Sarah. It was a lot of fun to do, but a pretty steep learning curve. I’m already working on more, so stay tuned. Thanks for commenting!
You’re convincing me to shoot in RAW format: I’ll set my camera to that for the next series of shots I do. Can’t wait to try it!
Great! RAH RAH RAW!
Take a couple of test shots first to determine if you can open the raw files. If you are using CS5 (which I suspect you are) then you shouldn’t have a problem. Navigate to your files using Bridge. Then “Open in Camera Raw” which is Command/Control R. Your file will open in the ACR window, and you’ll find that interface super easy to use. Forget curves and levels, the sliders are much more intuitive. Plus you can do retouching right within ACR, but that’s another lesson!
Let me know how it goes!
Wow! I thought the video was great; you do an excellent job of instructing and explaining. I am using the gray card from Scott Kelby’s book on Photoshop Elements 9.
I usually shoot raw but if I use JPG would I use the Midtone Gray card instead of the camera raw white balance card? Also, when should I use the highlight card and the black shadow card?
Glad you liked it Leslie!
Yes, if you shoot jpgs you can use the Midtone gray patch. In terms of actual colour it won’t make much, if any difference. But if you use curves for colour correction, then you can use the white patch for setting highlights, the black for setting black point and the midtone grey for calibrating midtone grey. That would be a good subject for another tutorial actually!
Thank you for your comment!
I am at that stage where I need up gather up all I have learnt so far and go forward. After two years !!! I have finally found out how to use the light metre on my camera (D300) – mainly because I am now shooting manually. I shoot only in raw and pp myself. Have a Eye1 Display 2, etc, etc. I am trying.
Have a grey card and sort of knew what I should do with it – but thanks to your clear explanation and video, I see what it is I have to do.
I now realize that not all grey cards are equal. I need a raw white balance card.
Wonderful website. Thanks.
Thanks for your comments Barbara! You’re going to love the grey card once you get used to it!
Really helpful — especially the comment about trusting the card and ignoring the monitor (which I admit to paying a lot of attention to). Thanks.
Thank you, that small video was exactly what I needed to get me started with my WhiBal card.
Marlene thanks alot I find it very helpfull when professional photographers are willing to help. My question is I have seen people using white balance cards ,taking a photo then using it to set the custom WB in the camera instead of in postproduction.I was wondering if you my be able to do a video of how thats done. Thank you again. BillK
Great suggestion, Bill! I’ll do a video on in-camera WB as soon as I can. If you are subscribed to my YouTube channel, you’ll have access to it as soon as it’s uploaded.
In my own practice I find it quicker to do it in post as I shoot raw files. But for jpg shooters an in-camera WB is better than doing it in post.
Thanks again!